I have been wondering in what way a pork dish might be considered "City Chicken" (as recounted in a recent lively tale of the boyhood of Phil Oppenheim). At first it seemed to me that a pig was as rural at heart as any chicken (see GREEN ACRES). But then I started thinking about what Carl Sandburg said, something about Chicago being "hog-butcher to the world," right? And Chicago is a city. And I seemed to remember something in the David S. Reynolds biography of Walt Whitman that I read a long time ago, something about herds (broods?) of big, dangerous pigs just running around in the streets of Manhattan in the 19th century, but I'm too tired to look it up.
